Yawl should know the conundrum of getting a tiller round the mizzen mast

The details of how to design a yawl so that the tiller gets around the mizzen is an interesting topic. There are a number of tricks:

Using a line steering system: Here you can see Michael Storers Beth Sailing Canoe with the tiller forward of the mizzen and the lines connecting to the rudder, which is out of the picture.


Ill add that there are a number of ways to do line steering. My Deblois Street Dory has line steering coming into the boat from a rudder yoke but there is not a remote tiller as in Beth. The Coquina is another example of line steering in which lines are attached directly to the rudder and pass through the transom, via a pulley system, and the steering line goes around the perimeter of the boat.

Using a long push-pull tiller: Here you can see James McMullens Oughtreds double ender.


Using a curved, laminated tiller or split tiller


Using a normal tiller with an offset mizzen




For the Goat Island Skiff, we go with an offset tiller as in this model by a customer:




The other methods I mentioned just wont fit the situation we have in the Goat Island Skiff, mainly because there is not room for a split tiller and we want to keep the solution simple. We are deciding about just how much to offset the tiller. You can see above that the tiller will hit the mizzen before 45-degrees. The big question is how much room do we want to give the tiller to swing. In the pictures, we decided to test a 45-degree swing. That puts the mizzen a little further off the centerline than Id like. This boat is very light and pushing a tiller than hard over makes the rudder act like a brake and the risk of losing so much speed that you cant get through the tack is something to consider. Then again, we dont need it so close that things feel claustrophobic. In the picture above of the offset mizzen, notice how little offset the mast is...the tiller must touch the mizzen pretty early. Does that give enough steerage for the helmsman when the push the tiller in the mizzen direction?

Well have a solution soon after a full-scale mock up. The way we are doing this, collaboratively, is something I do on many projects. It always gets a better result because many thoughts and ideas can be sifted through. The more the merrier. Whatever the solution I draw up, the mizzen can always be moved a little more or less off the centerline according to the skippers preference. The important thing is to maintain the rake of the mizzen, which has been determined. My point is, that collaboration with designers, customers, and other folks with experience through the forums and boat shows can be an advantage in getting many thoughts onto the table and generating the best solution.

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Getting Ready to Head South

Finisterra has been in her slip for the last four months undergoing some refits, improvements and upgrades in preparation for her next adventure. Here is a partial list of work done:
- 10 coats of varnish on the cap rails
- Replace the worn teak in the cockpit with synthetic teak
- Add a fourth element to the lazyjacks
- Rebuild the watermaker
- Replace the jib sheets and main halyard
- Service the ground tackle
- Install fans in all the cabins
- Modify the outboard motor hoist to make it smaller and lighter
- Install a cut-out switch between the solar panels and charge controller
- Upgrade the bimini
- Fabricate and install a new cockpit table
- Replace the XM radio antenna
- Replace all docklines
- Install spreader patches on the mainsail
- Service the diesel engine and outboard motor
- Seal the joint between the galley countertop and lockers
- Completely empty the boat and clean out all lockers
- Refresh ditch bag
- Get new bug screens for all hatches

Whew! That was a lot of work. Now all thats left is to provision, fuel up and take care of roughly a thousand other minor tasks, such as refill the propane tanks, re-certify all the safety gear, go through our wardrobes and thin them down for the tropics, install an Iridium Go satellite communications system, stock up on spare parts and tools, make copies of documentation, etc. etc.  A few of my landlocked friends tell me Im "Livin the dream", but what they dont understand is that living the dream is a lot of work!

Anyway, it looks like, barring any surprises, Finisterra will be ready to sail sometime in early November. The plan is to spend a few days at Catalina Island, another week or so in San Diego and then head for Ensenada. From there well sail down the coast of Baja California, stopping in Turtle Bay and possibly Magdalena Bay before rounding Cabo San Lucas and laying over a day or two in San Jose Del Cabo to top up provisions. From San Jose, the plan is to cross the Sea of Cortez to Mazatlan, then cruise down the coast to Puerto Vallarta where well spend a month or so and plan our next move.

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On the fact that Im simply tired of getting depressed when I read boat ads

Something interesting/scary, video meets the memory hole, and in the ongoing "Attack of the PFD Nazis" department...

This morning I saw that a boat I know was still for sale and had been recently reduced in price... It got me thinking about how everyone makes mistakes. In this case, a young couple bought a boat that was as close to perfection (in their mind) as they could find, spent a sizable chunk of money making it even better, and then discovered, for one reason or another, that cruising simply did not suit them.

Sort of a bummer that.

Of course, this is not an isolated incident and, over a fair amount of years, Ive seen this scenario play out time and time again and, at the end of the story, there is always a boat with so much invested in it selling at a deep discount. To say its depressing is something of a gross understatement. So, just a little advice...

Get yourself a cheap boat in decent shape and just go cruising.

Go cruising for six months or a year and find out if you actually want to cruise. An old Pearson Triton, a CAL 29, or a Hunter 33 will tell you everything you need to know about cruising and if in the process you discover you want to cruise full time you can always buy a nicer/better boat with added smarts on what a better/nicer boat actually is.

That said, if you find you dont actually like being on a boat you can then sell your cheap Pearson/CAL/Hunter for around what you have invested in it or at most a minuscule loss.

Just saying...

Listening to Lucy & La Mer

So it goes...

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Getting a Consistent Taper when Shaping Spars

Mike has attached a comment to my last posting, which I will answer very briefly. He is Mikes comment: -

Thanks for sharing these insights into boat building Ross.

Something Im having trouble with is getting a consistent taper on a small diameter spar perhaps you could share some gems with us.

Cheers
Mike

Now, I could write a very long answer to this, as it goes right back to the marking and cutting process if making a hollow spar, or to the lamination and marking process if building a solid stick. That is something for a proper book, so for the moment, Ill give just a quick run-down on my normal method - this applies to all sorts of spars, and to oars and paddles.

Here is a hollow mast glued-up. Despite the apparent disarray, the mast has been very carefully straightened and chocked on the bench so that the blank will be straight when the glue cures

Rough planing of the mast is done with the longest plane I have on hand. This one is a Record No.5 Jack Plane - If I had a longer one Id use it. It is important to support the spar well, and to use little pressure, otherwise the spar will bow while the plane passes.

Marking a square-sectioned, tapered blank for 8-siding using a home-made spar guage (the previous photos were of a Birds Mouth spar which comes out octagonal anyway - although you do have to plane off a few spurs)

Once the spar has been brought to an octagonal shape I mark it as shown using a dark pencil, scribbling into a wide, visible line. This is not my original idea - it has been use for years and years by knowledgable builders. I place the pencil marks about one cubit apart i.e. the length of my forearm!

The purpose of the series of pencil marks is so that one can visualise the widths of the facets when planing to sixteen sides. This is very difficult to judge without a visual guide, and I actually monitor my progress by measuring the pencil marked portions and the planed gaps with vernier calipers. You wont get it perfect, but aiming for perfection will give a better job overall.

After planing to sixteen sides, I re-draw the pencil marks to make an unbroken ring once again, and then plane to produce a 32-sided spar - still working with the No.5 Jack Plane, although if the timber is soft and well-behaved, I sometimes move to a low-angle block plane for its better feel

From there on, I use a flexible long-board. I havent got any photos of doing this on a spar, but this gives you the idea. Sometimes I make a concave long-board using a heavy cardboard (or PVC) with the paper glued in with spray adhesive. On my normal flat long-boards, I wrap the paper up around each end of the board as seen in this picture, and glue the ends down with hot-melt glue.

I know that some people use the inside-out sanding belt driven by a drill to attempt to get a nicely rounded spar with minimal effort. Well, I did it once, and will NEVER do it again. Because of human frailty, and the varying hardness of the timber as you move from areas of vertical grain to flat grain, it is virtually impossible to get a fair and even taper, and the spar will end up out-of-round (unless, possibly, it is a very carefully made stave mast with the grain of each stave aligned) - for my money, it is a good way to ruin a spar.

If you plane carefully to the 32-sided stage, the long-board (flat and/or concave) with give you a beautifully rounded spar in a very short time. Better still, you could leave it octagonal (with edges rounded a bit) - far less labor, and the mast ends up significantly stronger, as the eight corners of the octagon are at the greatest possible distance from the neutral axis of the mast - very efficient, and it looks ok as well!

Despite what I said in the last paragraph about leaving spars octagonal, you can see from this photo that I dont often follow my own advice! I made all of these by hand using just planes and sandpaper. The boat is an Aber I built for Dr. Paul Truscott

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